Wednesday, March 24, 2010

3-7 through 3-20-10 Sucre, Bolivia (pics from mirador and Recoleta convent, our temporary home, Parque Cretacico, Museo Charcas)































































































3-8-10: Sucre Facts: It is called la cuidad blanca (white city) due to the number of white buildings that they showcase with spotlights at night. It has an altitude of about 9,200 feet and temperate weather (mean of 64 degrees F). It is a popular city for tourists seeking to study Spanish or volunteer. Sucre is also famous for its tapestries; different indigenous tribes/family groups from the villages surrounding Sucre all have their own unique style, which is shown in their work by using different colors/symbols. Some handmade tapestries can take up to a year for 1 person to weave, depending on the size and complexity of the piece. Women are typically the weavers of the finer tapestries.

3-13-10: The amazing Parque Cretacico, also called Cal Orck’o (hill of lime), is located 5 kilometers outside of Sucre at a cement factory plant. It was discovered in the still active limestone quarry in 1994. It is the site of the world’s largest collection of dinosaur tracks. The tracks are embedded into a 70 degree wall of limestone, which used to be a lake floor, and thanks to tectonic movement was raised up as the current wall. The discovery of the footprints provided evidence that for a brief time interval before extinction, the diversity of dinosaurs was much larger than previously thought. The wall features about 5,055 individual footprints of at least 6 dinosaur species. The park has 24 life-size dinosaur replicas which includes 12 species of dinosaurs that lived together near the end of the Cretaceous period.

3-14-10: The family visited Villa Norita which is 20 minutes outside of Sucre in the countryside. For the low price of 35 bolivianos (5 U.S. dollars)/person, you could enjoy a delicious 2 course lunch with dessert and take a dip in the pool. Mike and the kids went for a swim, luckily, before we saw a young boy take a pair of underwear to the pool edge and dip them in the water and begin scrubbing them vigorously. Our desire for further swimming that day was extinguished after witnessing that event! Our bus ride back to town from Villa Norita was also an adventure. The bus was roughly a foot longer than our Honda minivan back home in Colorado but we squeezed into the nearly full bus by having Gaby and Luke sit on each of our laps. Amazingly, the bus driver picked up 4 more passengers at the next stop who nonchalantly stood or sat in the ‘aisle’ space; this brought the total passenger count to 24! We made it back to Sucre without further glitches except for cramped legs upon disembarking from the bus.

3-20-10: A visit to the Museo Charcas was a worthwhile and interesting outing today. Before being converted into a museum in 1957, the building and grounds belong to the Spanish Crown and was used for diverse purposes. The museum had 3 areas to explore: the Anthropology wing, the Colonial wing, and the Gallery of Modern Art. We liked the 1st 2 sections the best. The Anthropology section had a collection of objects ranging from approximately 1600 BC up to the Spanish occupation in 1532 AD, as well as physical anthropology and modern ethnography. It included ancient human skulls (regular-shaped skulls as well as skulls in which the cranium was deformed by wrapping the head with bandages or attaching wooden boards to flatten it), ceramic pottery of different indigenous tribes, jewelry, weapons and arrowheads, and pre-hispanic mummified bodies. The deceased were usually wrapped in a blanket and/or placed in a cave thus the dry climate of the area would naturally mummify the remains. The Colonial section had paintings, sculptures, and furniture of that era. The furniture pieces were objects of art as well since many of the wood pieces were ornately carved or inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The museum building, courtyard, and even the large, wooden, front door demonstrated the beautiful Colonial style.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

2-25 through 3-6-10: San Pedro de Atacama, Bolivia 4WD tour, and Sucre, Bolivia







































































































































































2-25-10: We arrived in San Pedro de Atacama in the a.m.; the popularity of this adobe precordillera (pre-mountain) oasis stems from its position in the heart of some of northern Chile’s most spectacular scenery. After quickly finding lodging, we set out to explore the town. First we visited the archeological museum which had a complete exhibition of the evolution of the indigenous Atacamena people. There were numerous intact artifacts that had been preserved for millennia by the area’s nearly rainless environment. Next we booked a 4WD, 3 day tour to better explore the surrounding wonders while taking us into Bolivia. This was a more interesting option than booking a regular bus ride.

2-26-10: The tour began with our passage into the high mountains of Bolivia and the Bolivia border crossing. Next we stopped at several lagunas whose colors were determined by varying mineral contents (Lagunas Blanca and Verde), followed by a soak in a natural hot spring (at an altitude of 15, 500 feet this was the highest point reached during our tour), and finally viewing the surrealistic, bubbling mud and steam of the Sol de Manana geysers. (Our 1st night lodging is seen in the picture after the geysers).

2-27-10: We continued the tour with Laguna Colorada which had plenty of flamingos in its red waters (the laguna’s color was due to the presence of algae rather than mineral content this time). Next we crossed into the Atacama desert and admired Stone Tree and other strange rock formations (that's Luke way up high on a large formation in one of the pics, no fear! lol). We ended the day visiting several altiplano lagunas (high altitude lakes). We did spot a 'viscacha' among the rocks. Viscachas are rodents closely related to the Chinchilla family.

Most of the people in our tour, including us, experienced mild altitude sickness since the 1st 2 days were spent at altitudes of 14,000-15,500 feet! The guides had bags of coca leaves which they distributed to the group; the leaves could be chewed directly or made into a tea to relieve the symtoms of altitude. Coca leaves are highly used by the indigenous people of Bolivia as a stimulant, appetite suppressant, and alleviator of altitude symptoms since they are frequently living/working in the high mountains; possessing them is legal here.

2-28-10: Our last day of the tour we visited a train cemetery (trains were abandoned here after an industry using them died out) outside Uyuni, had lunch in the town of Colchani in a building made out of salt bricks (there were neat salt statues inside as well), and then we drove out onto the expansive Salar de Uyuni (salar = salt-lake). The 4WD vehicles entered and exited the salar through specific areas where the compressed salt and other materials draining from the surrounding mountains each rainy season formed a strong matrix. The salt concentration is more pure toward the center of the salar making it unstable for vehicles. Our tour ended in Uyuni where we quickly found an internet center to call home since we had just learned about the devastating earthquake in Chile. We were totally unaware of what had occurred since our tour was in the remote mountains of Bolivia. We were lucky to have left Chile the day before the earthquake struck! We spent the night in Uyuni, Bolivia.
3-1-10: Our family caught the bus to Potosi in the a.m. (about an 8 hour ride) and then secured a taxi to drive us the rest of the way to Sucre (an additional 3 hour ride). We spent the night in a residencial after a long travel day!
3-2-10: We showed up at the doorstep of Bolivian Spanish School in Sucre this morning with all our luggage in tow. We checked in with them (they had been worried about us as well since we were scheduled to arrive yesterday and they hadn't heard from us) and they helped us find a place to rent for the month. One of the administrators, Anita, took us to check out an apartment within a large house-complex owned by her friend Rosita. The complex had been in Rosita's family for a long time and it was historic to boot! It was originally a Jesuit monastery built in the 1800s. It was an adobe house that extended for 1/2 a block, had a clay, tile roof, and several open courtyards. Our bedrooms, kitchen, and bathroom would be separate rooms located off 1 of the courtyards. Rosita and her family (including a cocker spaniel named Spot) lived in the complex but in a separate section. Mike and I didn't hesitate much longer and agreed to rent it for the month (at $300 U.S. it was right for our budget!). Our family happily settled in; it would be a 15-20 minute walk to school and it was close to the center of town; we lucked out!
3-3-10: Mike and the kids began Spanish language school today. They will attend from 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Monday-Friday.
3-5-10: Mike and the kids took me out to dinner for my birthday. Our table was situated on a balcony overlooking the busy Plaza 25 de Mayo. We enjoyed our meals and walked home to end a good day.
3-6-10: The family walked up to the overlook (La Recoleta or mirador) for a bird’s eye view of Sucre. The Spanish colonial arches and columns were a replica of the courtyard from the Recoleta monastery. Next to the mirador was the fountain of the Peregrina and the plaza where the city was founded.

2-17 through 2-24-10: Mendoza, Argentina then La Serena, Chile

2-17 through 2-20-10: We arrived in Mendoza, Argentina in the a.m. and found our way back to Quinta Rufino hostel where we were warmly welcomed back by Mabel, Oscar, Manuel, and Alejandra. We spent several days here relaxing and planning the next leg of our trip. Mike emailed various Spanish schools in various countries (Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, and up into Central America) looking for the most economical one. He decided on a school in Sucre, Bolivia since it was a good price, the town is a tranquil place, and it is a popular destination for students wishing to study Spanish. We received our mandatory yellow fever vaccinations on 2-19 in preparation for our travels into Bolivia and possibly Peru thereafter.

2-20-10: We left Mendoza in the evening en route to the coastal town of La Serena, Chile; a few days at the beach would break up our bus travel into northern Chile then Bolivia. We had originally thought of visiting Valparaiso and Vina del Mar but a travel agent told us that La Serena was more family-oriented and that Chile had newer and safer highways compared to the Argentinian roads leading into Bolivia.

The border crossing from Argentina to Chile (via Los Libertadores) passed through the majestic Andes mountain range. It would have been spectacular to see the Andes during the day, but I (Patty) could still appreciate their massive outlines against the midnight, star-studded sky.

2-21-10: We reached La Serena and found lodging at the nice Cabanas Sol de Miel which were a 1/2 block from the beach. We spent a couple of afternoons at the beach although the water was still cold enough to prevent immersion beyond the ankles; the exception was Gaby who entered the waves fearlessly at least for 5-10 minutes. Our family also played a game of Laser Tag (guys vs. gals) and Mike and Luke were the victors. We left La Serena via bus on the 24th heading toward the scenic San Pedro de Atacama.